Roof Repair

Step 1: interior inspection. We look at where the stain or active water appears, then trace upward — water rarely enters directly above where it shows on the ceiling. On a sloped attic we follow the rafters; on flat roofs we check the underside of the deck if accessible.

Step 2: exterior inspection. We climb the roof (not a binocular inspection from the yard) and physically check every detail above the suspected entry zone: shingle field, ridge cap, valley flashing, chimney flashing, sidewall flashing, pipe boots, skylight curbs.

Step 3: thermal imaging when needed. Hidden leaks under shingles or in valley underlayment sometimes don't show in a visual inspection. A thermal-imaging scan after rain (or a controlled water test) shows the moisture trail.

Step 4: written report. Every diagnosis ends with a one-page report — what we found, photos of each issue, recommended repair scope, line-item pricing, and an honest read of whether repair or full replacement is the right financial call.

**Missing or wind-lifted shingles.** Color-matched replacement from our in-stock supply of GAF, CertainTeed, Owens Corning, and IKO common colors. Includes underlayment inspection at the repair area.

**Pipe boot replacement.** The rubber pipe boots that seal around plumbing vent pipes typically fail at 8-12 years (UV degradation cracks the rubber). We replace with lifetime EPDM or lead-collar boots that outlast the roof.

**Step flashing rebuild at sidewall.** Where the roof meets a vertical wall (chimneys, dormer sides). Each shingle course has its own piece of flashing tied into the sidewall — when these fail or were installed wrong originally, water gets behind the siding.

**Counter flashing rebuild at chimney.** The metal that cuts into the chimney's mortar joint and laps over the step flashing. Often missing entirely on older NJ homes — caulked instead, which fails at 5-7 years.

**Cricket/saddle install behind chimney.** The small ridge behind a chimney that diverts water around it. Many NJ chimneys over 30" wide should have a cricket but don't — adding one solves recurring chimney leaks.

**Valley repair.** Open metal valleys can fail at fasteners; closed-cut valleys can fail when shingles lose their adhesive seal. Scope and cost scale with valley length and how the original was installed.

**Ridge cap replacement.** After a wind event, ridge cap shingles often lift or blow off. We replace with color-matched cap shingles plus high-wind nailing pattern.

**Decking patch under repair area.** Rotted plywood discovered during a repair gets cut out and replaced before re-shingling, priced per sheet.

Repair makes sense when: the rest of the roof has 10+ years of service life remaining, the failure is localized (single penetration, single flashing detail, wind damage to <10% of shingles), and the cumulative repair cost is under 30% of full replacement.

Replacement makes sense when: the roof is at or past its expected service life (asphalt: 25-30 years), there's widespread granule loss / curling / clawing, cumulative recent repairs exceed 30-50% of full replacement cost, or the decking shows signs of structural failure (sagging, water damage, soft spots).

The gray area: roofs at 15-20 years with localized damage. We give you both quotes — repair plus full replacement — and our honest opinion on which is the right play given how long you plan to stay in the house. A repair that buys 5 more years and full replacement at year-25 often pencils out better than a full replacement now.