Gutter Repair & Cleaning

Leaking corner miters and end caps. The most common failure. Original installers used silicone caulk that hardens and cracks within 2-3 seasons. We strip the old caulk completely, clean the metal, and reseal with polyurethane (Sika 1A) — stays flexible 15-20 years.

Sagging runs from failed hangers. Spike-and-ferrule installs (the old surface-mounted pin through the gutter into the fascia) loosen as wood fascia compresses under freeze-thaw. We replace with hidden-hanger brackets every 24" — internal aluminum brackets that screw into solid framing, not just the face of the fascia.

Pitch loss from wood movement. Even a properly pitched gutter loses its slope as the fascia and rafter tails settle over 15-20 years. We reset every run with a laser level, restore 1/4" per 10' minimum slope toward the downspouts.

Downspout disconnects. Often the elbows pull apart from ice expansion or yard equipment impact. We refasten with stainless screws and seal joints with polyurethane.

Clogged runs and downspouts. Leaves, pine needles, shingle granules, and dirt. A clogged gutter can hold 40-80 lbs of standing water in a heavy rain, tearing hangers loose and back-rotting the fascia. Cleaning is preventive maintenance, not optional.

Dented and twisted sections from ladder damage, fallen branches, ice slides. Localized damage gets section-replaced and color-matched; if the entire elevation is damaged, full replacement is more economical than piecemeal section work.

Twice-yearly cleaning (spring and fall) is the right cadence for most NJ properties with normal tree cover. Properties under heavy oak, maple, or pine canopy may need quarterly cleaning. We schedule recurring cleans so they happen without you having to remember.

A proper clean is more than removing debris. We physically hand-clean every gutter (not just blow it out with a leaf blower, which packs debris into the downspout outlet), flush each downspout with a hose to verify drainage, inspect every hanger for movement, check sealant condition at corners and end caps, and photograph any issues found.

Each clean ends with a one-page condition report: photos, any new issues noted, recommended repair scope if anything has degraded. This documentation supports warranty claims on premium gutter systems and protects fascia warranties on James Hardie and similar siding installs that require gutters to remain functional.

We use ladder stabilizers on every clean — never lean a ladder directly on the gutter. Leaning weights are what bend the front edge of an otherwise-sound gutter and break the seal at corners.

Gutter guards reduce cleaning frequency, not eliminate it. Even the best micromesh system needs annual rinse-off to prevent pollen and shingle granules from building a surface layer that sheds water over the front edge instead of through the mesh.

Hood-style guards (LeafGuard, Gutter Helmet) are the most expensive but the most effective at keeping leaves out. They use surface tension to pull water in through a narrow slot while leaves slide off. Downside: limited capacity in extreme rain — water can overshoot in heavy thunderstorms.

Micromesh guards (GutterGlove, Leaf Filter, MasterShield) sit on top of the gutter with stainless mesh fine enough to block shingle granules and pine needles. Easier retrofit than hood systems, less expensive, but require periodic surface cleaning.

Reverse-curve guards (the surface-tension style) work well on moderate-pitch shingle roofs but underperform on steeper pitches where water hits the guard fast enough to overshoot.

We don't install foam-insert or brush-style guards — they hold debris, retain moisture, and accelerate gutter corrosion. They're the kind of upsell you see at home shows; we don't sell them.